Shaving With A Safety Razor

2007 December 18
by Adam Drake

Well, it looks like zenhabits scooped the post I was going to write about shaving with a safety razor instead of disposables or a Mach 3/Fusion/etc. They mentioned most of the basics but did not discuss particular products, so I’ll outline what I’ve tried and what has worked for me in addition to a disagreement I have with one of their recommendations.

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Summary for impatient readers:
Go to ClassicShaving.com, buy a Merkur Slant Bar and a pack of Feather Hi-Stainless blades. Don’t use any shaving creams or anything, warm water works just fine. Take your time until you get the technique down. Enjoy shaving nirvana.
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I decided to start using a safety razor (double-edged razor, DE razor, all the same) because I abhor stubble but also found it difficult to shave every day without angering my face. Over the years I tried premium electric razors by Braun and Norelco but none really gave a close shave and my face paid for it. I also have tried all sorts of razors, both disposable and otherwise, the most recent being the Gillette Fusion which in my opinion was a terrible shave and terribly overpriced ($9 for the razor + $4 PER new cartridge).

After a bit of research I found that shaving with a safety razor was easier on your skin, gave a smoother shave, and the blades were MUCH cheaper, in some cases at little as $0.12 per blade! I decided to order through ClassicShaving.com and purchased a Merkur Vision and a Merkur Slant Bar. The logic there was that I would start with the Merkur Vision, which is adjustable, and as my technique improved I would switch to the Merkur Slant Bar which is a notoriously good shave but also is notorious for butchering the face of the neophyte that attempts to use it.

Before I discuss the two razors, I have a bit of a disagreement with 99% of the shaving community in that I no longer believe in using any kind of shaving cream/soap/gel/etc. I wash my face while I’m in the shower and then when I get out, I shave at the sink while keeping plenty of warm/hot water on my face. That’s it. I’ve found shaving lubricants to be completely unnecessary and a waste of money. I get a shave at least as close with plain old water, there’s less mess, and it takes less time. It did take my face a few days to adapt to shaving with only water, and I used a Bic single blade disposable during the transition, but I haven’t used shaving cream in months and couldn’t be happier. Give it a try, simplify your life.

Now, the first DE shave was with the Merkur Vision and it was phenomenal compared to EVERY shave I’d had previously. It was the closest shave, with the least irritation, that I’d ever experienced. I didn’t have any issues with technique, cutting myself, or razorburn. At that point I KNEW what a good shave was supposed to be, it’s too bad that it only took about a decade of shaving to figure it out. I was satisfied and figured that I would work on my technique for a few weeks before progressing to the Slant Bar, which is notoriously unforgiving. However, my curiosity got the best of me and I used the Slant Bar just a few days later.

The Merkur Slant Bar is regarded in shaving circles as the closest shave available, although there isn’t much room for error. Some even call it the “Devil’s Razor.” I found this to be COMPLETELY false. It was just as easy to use as the Vision razor was, but cost only $30, versus $113 for the Vision. In addition, the shave was better, which I would have thought impossible had I not experienced it directly (shaving with a DE razor is a real eye-opener).

I’ve since switched form the Merkur blades that came with the razor to Feather blades which are made in Japan and among the shaving forums I visited, regarded as the sharpest blades available. I was quite afraid the first time I used the combination of Slant Bar with Feather blade because it seemed like many people on the shaving forums were afraid of it. I found it to be absolutely delightful, and after trying other blades I have settled on Feather as my blade of choice. They can be had for various prices, sometimes bulk ordering is available online for packs of 250 blades, averaging to about $0.25 per blade. MUCH better than the $4 for your Gillette Fusion replacement blades.

To conclude, shaving with a DE razor is superior to shaving with all others currently available due to the sharpness of the blades, closeness of the shave, and how little it irritates your skin. DO NOT be afraid of buying a Merkur Slant Bar and using it right from the beginning, I found it very easy and have not cut myself once. I don’t know why it has a reputation as a razor for “advanced” users, but it was fine for me and I used it the 2nd or 3rd time I shaved with a DE razor. Also, shaving lubricants are not necessary. Put hot water on your face and reapply during your shave.

If you would like a MUCH more thorough outline of DE shaving procedure (which also includes recommendations on shaving lubricants) I would refer the reader to Leisureguy’s excellent guide.

3 Responses leave one →
  1. 2008 June 2

    I was big on Feather blades until I started exploring further and found several brands that I liked better. The Gillette 7 O’Clock SharpEdge are quite good (not to be confused with 7 AM blades, which for me are mediocre). Others to try: Astra Superior Platinum, Treet Blue Special, Iridium Super, Polsilver. Razor and Brush carries these along with many others.

  2. 2008 June 3

    Thanks for the advice. I got the Sampler Pack #5 from Razor and Brush but after trying a few blades (the specific ones I don’t recall) I settled on the Feather Hi-Stainless and promptly ordered a pack of 250 from Ebay. I do not remember trying some of the ones you mentioned, so perhaps another test is in order. :)

  3. 2008 June 7

    It may well be that Feathers are best for you, though. Still, you might want to occasionally try another brand from the sampler and see how it compares with the Feather. Always interesting to compare.

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